POND TIPS & TRICKS
Here you'll find information about Spring Clean-outs, Fall & Winter Preparations, and how to Over-Winter your Tropical Plants. Check back often for new tips & tricks added often.
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Spring Clean-outs
WHY DO YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOU POND EVERY YEAR?
- Debris accumulates in the pond
- Decomposed debris = Sludge and water problems = Bad for fish & plants
- Annual Clean-outs = Simulation of what occurs in natures
- Following certain clean-out steps will ensure a clean, healthy pond for another season!
Cleaning out a pond is a dirty job! If you don’t want to do it yourself, call us to get on the schedule. Spring Clean-outs begin in late February, depending on the weather. Most clean-outs begin around $300 and are priced based on time spent, which all depends on how dirty the pond is and how long it’s been since it’s been cleaned out.
Are you a do-it-yourselfer interested in doing your own pond clean-out? That’s great! Here are some details about the spring clean-out process to help you along the way. The clean-out process can be lengthy and dirty so prepare in advance. Be sure to set aside enough time to get the clean-out done in one day, any longer will cause stress to your fish. The steps below should give you enough detailed information to get the clean-out done as efficiently as possible, but if you have any questions, feel free to contact us.
SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED
Container(s) to hold fish (100-300 gallons)
Fish Net
Pond Netting
Shop Vacuum (optional)
5-gallon buckets
Wading boots (optional but recommended)
Rubber gloves (optional but recommended)
Pump to drain the pond
Garden hose or pressure washer
Garden shears to trim plants
Aquatic plant fertilizer tablets
STEPS TO FOLLOW
1. Fish care
2. Plant care
3. Pond clean-out
4. Filter/Skimmer clean-out
5. Handling leaks after the clean-out
6. Filling the pond
7. Testing the water
Step 1 – Fish Care
- Remove your fish from the pond using a fish net larger than your fish
- Easiest to do when the water level is low. Use pump to drain water.
- Chasing your fish around the pond too much causes them stress.
- Plan a safe holding area for your fish – Use the existing pond water to fill container
- Make provisions for aerating the water
- Use air pump, bubbler or pump with a fountain nozzle.
- Cover the tanks with nets to prevent fish from jumping out
- Perform Pond Clean-out (Step 3)
- Before returning fish to pond
- Check and treat fish for disease or infections
- Consider culling the fish population
- Offer fish to friends with ponds
- Treat new pond water with a Dechlorinator (Detoxifier)
- Test temperature of new pond water
- Acclimate fish to new pond water
- If the temperature of new pond water is within five degrees of holding tanks, it’s safe to return the fish to the pond.
Step 2 – Plant Care
Hardy Marginal Aquatic Plants
- Trim back plants to 1-2 inches above water level (if not already done in the fall)
- Feed plants accordingly with fertilizer tablets
- Take the time to cull some plants, possibly dividing
Hardy Water Lilies
- Trim rhizome, or tuber, back to no more than 3” to 6”
- Cut back roots and leaf stems close to the rhizome and replant, if desired
- Don’t add tropical lilies to the pond until the water temperatures reach about 70 degrees
- Split plants and replant in pot or pond
Re-locate semi-hardy plants from non-freezing place into your pond.
Step 3 – Pond Clean-Out
- Drain remaining water not used for fish and plant holding tanks
- Agitate gravel
- Use shop vacuum to remove debris
- Remove remaining debris by hand
- Hose off, or pressure wash, the rock on the sides and bottom of the pond
- Drain pond again
- You can use a brush to clean off any remaining sludge, if needed
- Take this time to re-position any disturbed rocks
- Clean the filter(s)
- Clean or replace bio-media
- Replace lava rock each spring
- Pressure wash or hose off any foam on filter pads
- Consider replacing any filter media if worn out (most filter mats last about 3 years)
- Vacuum out any sludge accumulation on the bottom of the filter
- Check connections for possible leaks – tighten all clamps
- Clean the skimmer
- Clean any pads or brushes
- Clean and inspect debris net – replace if necessary
- Remove sludge with vacuum or by hand
Step 4 – Filter & Skimmer Cleaning
- Remove All mats, filters and nets
- Vacuum out the bottom of the skimmer
- Rinse out all mats thoroughly before returning to the skimmer
Step 5 – Handling Leaks after the Clean-out
- Look for low spots in the pond and pull up the liner and back-fill the area with dirt/rock
- Liner patches are available if you have a small tear or hole
Step 6 – Filling the Pond
- Begin adding water back into the pond with hose
- Treat water with Pond Detoxifer to remove chlorine or chloramines
- Add Cold Water Bacteria
- Add Salt if necessary
- Re-introduce fish and plants as previously suggested. Be sure to use a net that is larger than your fish.
- NOTE: Your pond water will look dirty at first, but once it starts filtering through your media it will clear up and look good as new!
Step 7 – Water Testing (if desired)
- If desired, you can use test strips to check pH and Ammonia levels of the water
- If needed, adjust the levels with the proper water treatments
- Call us for details or products
NO CLEAN-OUT NECESSARY THIS YEAR?
If you don’t feel you need a spring clean-out this year, we still recommended doing a 25%-50% water change in the spring to freshen up the pond. Also add Detoxifier to the new water, Cold Water Bacteria as directed above, and salt if needed.
Continue adding Cold Water Bacteria twice a week for two weeks. Then once a week every two weeks until the water temperatures are consistently 55 degrees. Then you can begin using the regular Beneficial Bacteria into the summer and fall. For these essential beneficial bacterias, detoxifiers, and other products, view our Products Page - And COMING SOON, order your products directl
Fall & Winter Pond Preparations
1. Ensure the long-term health of your ecosystem
2. Ensure the survival of your aquatic life over winter
3. Make for a much easier start-up in the spring!
Here is a step-by-step list of our suggestions for preparing your pond properly for the cold months ahead...
Step 1: Remove all leaves, debris and other organic materials from the pond. Leaving this material in the pond will cause it to decompose and break down in the pond over the winter. This releases more gas into the water and if trapped beneath ice, can potentially harm your fish.
Step 2: When the water temperature reaches 60 degrees, switch to a Low-Temperature Fish Food. Fish metabolism slows as the temps drop and the specially formulated cold water fish food is easier on their digestive system, and less likely to remain trapped in their bellies over the winter.
Step 3: Also switch to Cold Water Beneficial Bacteria at this time and continue using it throughout the winter and into the spring. Once the temperatures warm up again in late spring, you can switch back to the regular Beneficial Bacteria.
Step 4: When water temperatures drop to 55 degrees or below, stop feeding your fish altogether. You don't want them to have any undigested food in their bellies over the winter! If they are still hungry, they'll find food in the pond.
Step 5: Cut back hardy plants to a few inches above the water surface. Feel free to leaves some of the taller grasses for winter appeal and contrast. You can cut these back in the spring.
Step 6: Remove tropical aquatic plants from the pond. Tropical refers to anything in a zone higher than Zone 5. Treat these plants as annuals and discard them or move them indoors to keep over the winter. More tips on over-winterizing plants to come...
Step 7: Decide if you want to keep the waterfall running throughout the winter or shut down the waterfall. Most, but not all, ponds can be left running all year long with very little maintenance in the winter. Plus, a winter pond provides some beautiful ice sculptures that change almost daily!
Step 7-A: If you CLOSE your pond, there are several steps you need to take to ensure that you pond will function properly again in the spring. First, remove the pump and place it in a bucket of water to be stored in a frost-free location over the winter. Also remove all skimmer filter mats and brushes, clean and store in a dry location. Also, drain the BioFalls by opening the check valve. Finally drain the BioFalls filter mats and bio-media, clean and store in a dry location. If you keep fish in the pond without the waterfall running during the winter, you will need a small pump to circulate the water and add oxygen, and a heater or de-icer to keep a hole in the ice to allow for gas exchange.
Step 7-B: If you keep your pond RUNNING, Add a heater or de-icer to keep a hole in the ice to allow for gas exchange. A bubbler or small pump also helps to add oxygen to the water, keeping your fish safe. The waterfall also provides oxygen and circulation to the pond. Also, keep an eye on the ice that forms to watch for ice dams. If a dam is formed, the ice can actually lead the water out and away from the pond. If this happens, simply pour hot water over the ice dam, or try to carefully break away the ice.
Step 8: Sit back and enjoy your winter wonderland and dream of spring!
How to Keep Your Tropical Plants Over Winter
It is such a shame to just throw them out in the fall, after seeing all that beauty during the summer. Although somewhat time-consuming you CAN keep those gorgeous tropicals over the winter and transplant them back to your water feature next spring. Check back soon for more information as to how to do this and how to make sure they survive!
Coming soon....